You obviously will know about the horsey in the national
diet if you are British, on the assumption that you have not been away on Mars
for the past few weeks. For the rest of the world, those who are
blissfully ignorant of these shores, let me just say that the British public,
or the poorer part of it, was being fed horse meat pretending to be beef.
Shocking! Shocking! Mind
you, I’m not convinced that those who buy tripe (possibly?) like Findus’ or
Tesco’s deep frozen lasagne really know or care what they are eating, so long
as it has a meaty taste. Then there are the burgers. Lord alone
knows what’s in those. Actually, we do know – udders, guts, sexual parts,
all rendered down; revolting enough, even when it is not horse.
There was a readers’ poll in the Daily Telegraph recently arising from the horse meat
scandal. The question was simple: do you think it acceptable to eat horse meat
or not? I voted no, because I would no more eat horse than I would eat
cat or rat. Rat, yes, this is something I will come on to in a bit or a
bite. The result of the poll - revealed after one had voted - was almost
neck and neck, the antis winning by a mere nose. So, whether or not the
pros actually eat horse burgers they do not think there is anything wrong in
principle here.
Oh, but there is. First of
all the issue is about honesty. I know one virtually has to have a PhD
now to make sense of the labelling on food products, but at the most basic
level people have a right to know if they are eating beef or dog meat. If
they have a preference for dog that’s fine, just as long as they understand
what it is they are buying. I say dog, knowing full well that the
Telegraph poll would have produced a far clearer result if that had been the
product in question, though there are some places in the world where dog is
considered tasty and nutritious.
The real issue, the issue that is
beyond the comprehension of the unimaginative, is that of adulteration; of the
corruption of food, a corruption born of the drive to feed the masses with the
cheapest product available. “Let them eat cake”, Marie Antoinette is
falsely alleged to have said. But that is positively benign compared with
the “Let them eat crap” of the modern food Tsars.
The adulteration of food was big
issue in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, both in England and the
United States. The problem got worse with industrialisation, when cheap
food was a necessary corollary of low wages. In the States it got so bad
that the New York Evening Post published a parody of a well-known
nursery rhyme;
Mary had a little lamb,
And when she saw it sicken,
She shipped it off to Packingtown,
And now it's labeled chicken.
And when she saw it sicken,
She shipped it off to Packingtown,
And now it's labeled chicken.
Upton Sinclair caught the mood in The Jungle, a novel published
in 1906, which described the dreadful conditions in the meat packing
industry. But sick lamb pretending to be chicken was not enough for him;
oh, no. He went that step further, claiming that the workers who had the
misfortune to fall into the rendering tanks were ground up and sold with the
rest as Durham’s Pure Beef Lard!
We have come a long way since
then, with legislation and inspection aimed at reducing corruption (meat) and
corruption (human). No we have not. If anything the situation is
getting worse. Corruption, in one form or another, is the name of a
pretty dirty game; and when it comes to meat things can get an awful lot dirtier.
It’s not really that long since England was beset by the BSE crisis, when it
was discovered that rendered meat products was being fed to cattle, with
disastrous human results. We learned from that that we clearly learned
nothing. For now horse is in the stakes and the steaks.
Keep your eye on that horse; keep
your eye on the one named Profit, the odds on favourite; for that is what it’s all about. We have enough
pasture in England to produce all of the lamb and beef we need, with pork and
chicken not far behind. But we have become a link in a longer and longer
international food chain. The more extended it gets the greater the
opportunity for criminal intervention. Writing in the New Statesman (Meat
Market, 22 February), Colin Tudge rightly asked “If crooks along the
tortuous food chain can add horse to our meat products, why not dog, or rat, or
cat?” Yes, why not? He raises some additional pertinent
questions;
Given that the world trade in
bushmeat is now vast, why not add bush fat of baboon? What’s to keep out
the meat that has been assigned for pet food? Why not meat that has been
condemned? What guarantees can be given?
None, it would appear, though we
have had a Food Standards Agency in England for the past twelve years, a
guarantor that clearly guarantees nothing.
Then there are the supermarket chains like Findus and Tesco, who have
singularly failed to investigate their suppliers. Then there are the
politicians, who assure us that our meat is ‘safe’ when they know full well
that, as a member of the European Union, we as a country have no proper control
over the product that comes from the Continent. Horse meat today; cat or
rat tomorrow.
I think there is a strong element
of cynicism here. As I say, the horse to watch is Profit. The poor
- and it is the poor - are the principle victims of our two for one deep frozen
food culture. In the wake of the horse fiasco, super market chiefs are
saying that their products are likely to become more expensive, that the days
of cheap food are over. This suggests to me that they already knew that
there was something fishy, make that horsey, about the stuff they were selling,
that or they simply did not ask too many pertinent questions. Get ‘beef’
from Mexico or Bulgaria rather than local suppliers – why not? It’s cheap
and goes very well in burgers and lasagne.
This is a story, as Tudge says,
that might turn nastier yet. The world food chain is out of control, or
falling in to the control of unscrupulous profiteers, pirates of all sorts, the
sort of people who only care about Profit, the one horse they do not want to
see fall. Inevitably the scandal will settle down as cosmetic changes are
made, as politicians issue further assurances and standards are supposedly
raised, as the public’s fickle attention
turns to some other tale of woe. Those who have become veggies, fearful
of eating horse, will return to meat. The pendulum will swing the other
way in this best of all possible worlds. At least until it is discovered
that the benighted public have been eating something a lot less benign
than horse. In the meantime I would strongly urge you to avoid Durham’s
Pure Beef Lard.








































