I take the Golden Road |
Dear readers, this will be the last article for a bit.
I leave for Tunisia
this coming Sunday and will be away for just over three weeks. I’m so
looking forward to it, my third trip to North Africa, following Egypt last year and Morocco a few years before.
I simply love to travel; it’s in my blood. We had some
wonderful vacations when I was a child, visiting quite a few unusual
places. I’ve continued this family tradition. The more unusual the
destination the better I like it. I’m not a travel snob, though; I’m as
capable as most other people of doing touristy things and visiting touristy
places. I like to be pampered and I’m most assuredly not into any form of
asceticism or personal hardship. I go for pleasure, not for
penance!
Having said that, I do sometimes feel that I was born too
late, at a time when the world gets smaller by the day; a time when all the
great adventures are past; when all the trails are blazed and all the paths
found. I would simply loved to have been alive in the great age of exploration,
which for me is the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, a time when
the maps were being filled out.
Have you heard of Gertrude Bell? She is a particular
heroine of mine: the first woman down from Oxford with a degree in Modern History; an
independent scholar, an archaeologist, and expert in several Middle Eastern
languages, a writer, a political specialist, a traveller; a friend of sheiks
and kings - the female Lawrence of Arabia!
In 1900 she dressed herself as a Bedouin man, riding alone
into the dangerous Hauran Plain, still under the control of the Ottomans, in
search of the Druze, a militant Muslim sect, which had been fighting the Turks
for two hundred years. She made contact with Yahya Beg, king of the Druze, and
conversed with him in his own language. Some weeks after he was to ask another
visitor to his domain 'Have you seen a queen travelling?'
I’m no queen; I’m just a footloose English girl, going where
the fancy takes me, hoping to understand other people and other cultures just a
little better; hoping at the same time to understand myself a little better, my
mind deeper, my horizons broader.
Why Tunisia ,
you may wonder? In part because I have a fascination with past cultures,
with the history of a country that once contained Carthage , the realm of Queen Dido, more
completely lost than mere time would suggest. I will be there, among the
fragments and those later left by Rome ,
fragments upon fragments, traces upon traces. Perhaps I shall find Dido,
with Aeneas by her side. (I saw Anna Karenina this afternoon. My present mood is fey and romantic!)
But my African adventure is deeper. It will take me
from Tunis and Carthage in the north to the oasis of Tozeur
in the far south-west. From there I’m off into the Sahara
and also to see the great salt lake of Chott el Jerid, with mirages dancing in
the sun!
OK, there is a slight concern going to a Muslim country at
this time, a time when things are so unsettled, a time when Tunisia itself
is unsettled. But I was in Cairo
last November, leaving just before the latest round of trouble started on Tahrir Square .
If one worried about danger one would never travel at all. Besides life
is all risk and I am a fatalist, a jolly one at that. I shall, in my own
way, spread as much peace and light as I can…and keep my golden locks well
tucked under a headscarf.
So, that’s it. My next piece shall be a postcard from Tunisia .